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Sunday, May 12, 2024

Edinburgh, Scotland, Part One

Edinburgh, which is the capital city of Scotland, was also the last place we visited on the wonderful Cosmos Tour we took in October of 2023 of "The Highlights of Ireland and Scotland." 

Edinburgh is the seat of the Scottish Government, the Scottish Parliament, the highest courts in Scotland, and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. It is also the annual venue of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. The city has long been a center of education, particularly in the fields of medicine, law, literature, philosophy, the sciences, and engineering. The University of Edinburgh, founded in 1582 and now one of three in the city, is considered one of the best research institutions in the world. It is the second-largest financial center in the United Kingdom, the fourth-largest in Europe, and the thirteenth-largest internationally.

On our first day in Edinburgh, our bus tour took us through an area of Edinburgh called the New Town. This area was built in stages between 1767 and around 1850 and retains much of its original neo-classical and Georgian period architecture. A special knowledgeable guide joined us on the bus that day to provide commentary on what we were seeing outside our windows.



We passed stately Georgian-style row homes. Many famous people once lived in New Town: J.M. Barre, the author of Peter Pan, Alexander Graham Bell, who invented the telephone, Arthur Conan Doyle, author of the Sherlock Holmes series of novels, as well as the present official residence of the First Minister of Scotland at Bute House.




Our bus stopped at this home with the red door, 8 Howard Place, and our guide told us this was once the home of the Scottish novelist, essayist, poet, and travel writer Robert Lewis Stevenson!  Stevenson is best known for works such as Treasure Island, Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, Kidnapped and A Child's Garden of Verses.

Our guide told us that Stevenson was sickly as a child with a bronchial condition, and was often confined in bed. His bedroom window was facing the street, and much of his boyhood life had to be imagined, as reflected in his book of poems written in 1885 from the viewpoint of a child, A Child's Garden of Verses which he dedicated to his childhood nurse, Alison Cunningham.


Our guide then began to read one of his poems called The Lamplighter...see the video below






by Robert Lewis Stevenson


"My tea is nearly ready and the sun has left the sky;
It’s time to take the window to see Leerie going by;
For every night at teatime and before you take your seat,
With lantern and with ladder he comes posting up the street.

Now Tom would be a driver and Maria go to sea,
And my papa’s a banker and as rich as he can be;
But I, when I am stronger and can choose what I’m to do,
Oh Leerie, I’ll go round at night and light the lamps with you!

For we are very lucky, with a lamp before the door,
And Leerie stops to light it as he lights so many more;
And O! Before you hurry by with ladder and with light,
O Leerie, see a little child and nod to him tonight!"





This residence was once the residence of a British surgeon, Lord Joseph Lister. ( 1827 -1912)

Lord Joseph Lister was the founder of antiseptic medicine and aseptic surgery, and Regius Professor of Clinical Surgery.
Lister came to Edinburgh in 1853 after graduating in medicine in London. He worked closely with James Syme, the celebrated Professor of Surgery in Edinburgh, becoming his assistant and marrying his daughter.

In 1860 he was appointed to the Chair of Surgery in Glasgow, and it was there that he first applied Louis Pasteur’s recent discoveries about the role of airborne bacteria in fermentation to the prevention of infection in surgery. In 1866 he introduced carbolic acid as an antiseptic, to kill airborne bacteria and prevent their transmission into wounds from the air of the operating theater.
In 1869 he returned to Edinburgh as successor to Syme as Professor of Surgery and continued to develop improved methods of antisepsis and asepsis, with greatly reduced infection rates.


Our tour guide gave us some more information about Lord Dr. Lister in the video below:




Another interesting home we saw was this one with the blue door. It is called The Georgian House, which is an 18th-century townhouse situated at No. 7  Charlotte Square.  It has been restored and furnished by the National Trust for Scotland and is operated as a popular tourist attraction.




Our guide also told us that many buildings in Edinburgh, particularly around Dundas Street, had boarded-up windows because the practice of concealing windows links back to a 1696 tax called the "window tax," where people were taxed according to how many windows their residence contained. So to avoid paying the levy, some people blocked up one or two of their windows.  

Upon further research however, I learned that the window tax was repealed in 1851,  and this website tells the real reason why--the windows were placed externally for symmetry, but behind them are architectural elements like chimneys, so the tax reason is a myth.


Our tour then drove us around Edinburgh's Old Town. The Old Town is the name popularly given to the oldest part of Edinburgh. The area has preserved much of its medieval street plan and many Reformation-era buildings. Together with the 18th/19th-century New Town, and West End, it forms part of a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site The city had a very magical quality to it and I could see how author J.K. Rowling was inspired to write the majority of the Harry Potter books when she lived a while in Edinburgh to be near her sister.



The many spires and Old Town is also the location of many modern buildings as well as museums, shops, and eateries -- so much to do and see!   It is definitely a place I'd like to visit again someday.




One thing I noticed was all the interesting statues all around Edinburgh. I would need to have been on a walking tour to be able to identify them all, but I managed to capture photos of them from my tour bus window!


 
Edinburgh Castle--click on the photo to enlarge it.

Our tour bus was now going to drive us up the hill to visit Edinburgh Castle where we would enter and continue as a walking tour... to be continued on my next blog post.












Monday, May 6, 2024

St Andrews. Scotland


St Andrews, Scotland, is a town on the east coast of Fife in Scotland, 10 miles (16 kilometers) southeast of Dundee and 30 miles (50 kilometers) northeast of Edinburgh.  When our tour bus approached St Andrews it began to rain, as you can see by my photos through the raindrop-splattered tour bus window.

St Andrews is famous as the birthplace of golf and now also the college town where Prince William met and wooed the future Princess Kate! Our bus drove by the coffee shop where they often had their dates, but it was on the opposite side of my window, so I could not snap a photo.


This was our first view of the famous St Andrews "Old Course" golf course

St Andrews is known widely as the "home of golf." According to the earliest surviving document from 1552, the "playing at golf" on the links adjacent to the "water of Eden" was granted permission by Archbishop Hamilton. The most famous golf course in the town is the public Old Course, purchased by the town council in 1894. The course which dates back to medieval times, is an Open Championship course – which was first staged in 1873. 


The golf course is situated next to the North Sea and our Scottish-born tour guide told us that he never saw the sea as turbulent as it was that day!


We were mesmerized by the sea water churning and spraying, and amazed to see someone was parasailing in the water!

 



This short video, that I filmed, shows the parasailor battling the storm at St Andrews

Sadly, the Old Course at St Andrews, is at major risk of falling into the sea due to coastal erosion over the next 20 years, according to a report on BBC/




Because it was raining hard we decided to pop into the gift shop for a while.




...where we could see a nice panorama of the golf course from its windows.




When the rain stopped my husband and I and my sister-in-law and brother-in-law walked out to the gold course--what a thrill to see it up close!


In the distance, we could see the famous Swilcan Bridge. The Swilcan Bridge is a small stone bridge in St Andrews Links golf course, Scotland. The bridge spans the Swilcan Burn between the first and eighteenth fairways on the Old Course and has become an important image in the sport of golf.




Across from the golf course was a park overlooking the sea.



We had a bit of time before we had to re-board our tour bus, so we walked down to the main street...


...where we window-shopped.



One interesting shop, once owned by a famous Scottish golfer, hand makes custom-made golf clubs.



Upon re-boarding our tour bus, we arrived in Edinburgh in the early evening. After checking into our hotel, we attended an optional dinner show called "The Spirit of Scotland," consisting of traditional Scottish food, music, and dance.



It was exciting to meet Pipe Major Andrew Coulter!


Our appetizer was the traditional Scottish Haggis.
It was surprisingly good!



The rest of our meal was also delicious!


We enjoyed the show very much! John Morgan played superb accordion, Clark Stewart sang old Scottish ballads, and Andrew Coulter played the bagpipes.





A short video that I filmed at the show of traditional Scottish dancing and bagpipe music.


We spent the final two days of our tour in Edinburgh!
 More details to come in my next blog post.



Monday, April 29, 2024

Pitlochry, Scotland



The next morning our Cosmos bus tour of the "Highlights of Ireland and Scotland," drove north from Culloden toward PitlochryWe drove past colorful pastoral scenery which was aglow in autumnal splendor.  I could not resist taking many photos through the bus window!


 Ruins of the Ruthven Barracks

We passed Ruthven Barracks in the Badenoch area, They are the best preserved of the four barracks built in 1719 after the 1715 Jacobite rising. Set on an old castle mound, the complex comprises two large three-story blocks occupying two sides of the enclosure, each with two rooms per floor. The barracks and enclosing walls were built with loopholes for musket firing, and bastion towers were built at opposite corners. Destroyed by Jacobites following their retreat after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.



When our bus stopped at Pitlochry we had a few hours to explore the town. Pitlochry is largely a Victorian-era town, which developed into a tourist resort after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visited the area in 1842 and bought a highland estate at Balmoral, and the arrival of the railway in 1863. It remains a popular tourist resort today and is particularly known for its Pitlochry Festival Theatre, salmon ladder (click here to read about that unusual attraction), and as a center for hiking as it is surrounded by mountains and world-class golf. 

My husband and I were charmed by the town! As we walked by a canal a fellow tourist on our tour bus, who was visiting from New Zealand, offered to take our photos.



Colorful sights in town...

...and much window shopping!



Please click on the photo to enlarge it

This Scottish Kilt made from hangers in one store window was very clever!


I was excited to visit the John Muir Trust Visitor's Center in Pitlochry as he is someone I've admired for many years!

 John Muir (April 21, 1838 – December 24, 1914) was born in Scotland and emigrated to the United States in 1849 with his parents and siblings. In his life, he became a naturalist, author, environmentalist, botanist, zoologist, glaciologist, and early advocate for the preservation of wilderness in the United States, and is known as the "Father of the National Parks" system and the founder of the Sierra Club.



Please click on the photo  to enlarge

There were many informational placards in the center


Environmental conservation is a worldwide need and Scotland is promoting its awareness. 



I agree!


We passed more beautiful scenery when we departed Pitlochry, on our way toward St Andrews.



We passed farmlands and sadly saw the remains of flooding that had occurred with Storm Babet which roared through part of Europe in the middle of October, with destructive rain and flooding. All of Europe has been feeling the effects of climate change.


We rode along with Rail Europe at one point as we made our way east to St. Andrews--on my next post!

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Sunday, April 21, 2024

The Culloden Battlefield near Inverness, Scotland


Culloden is a tract of moorland located in the county of Inverness, in the Scottish Highlands. As we drove towards the battlefield, our tour bus passed through charming towns and breathtaking scenery.



Crossing over the River Ness into Inverness




Our tour guide told us to quickly glance to see these bible passages engraved on the wall of a building in Inverness.  Luckily, I could snap a few photos of them as our tour bus passed themThey are a series of thirteen verses carved on the first floor walls of a city center building on the High Street. The building dates back to 1815 and at one time was the Athenaeum Hotel. Our tour guide said they were placed there to remind local politicians of their Christian duties.


Please click on the photo collage above to enlarge it.



The Battle of Culloden took place on April 16, 1746.  It was the last battle of the “Forty-five Rebellion,” when the Jacobites, under Charles Edward, the Young Pretender (“Bonnie Prince Charlie”), were defeated by British forces under William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland.

The battle, which lasted only 40 minutes, resulted in bitter defeat for the heavily outnumbered Jacobites. Some 1,000 of the Young Pretender’s army of 5,000 weak and starving Highlanders were killed by the 9,000 Redcoats, who lost only 50 men. 

The Highlanders finally broke and fled, and some 1,000 more were killed in subsequent weeks of hounding by British troops. Hunted by troops and spies, Prince Charles wandered over Scotland for five months before escaping to France and final exile. The Battle of Culloden marked the end of any serious attempt by the Jacobites to restore the Stuart Dynasty to the British throne.



Leanach Cottage

During the battle, a similar cottage stood on this spot and served as a field hospital for Government soldiers. Over time, the cottage has seen many changes.

After falling into disrepair, Leanach Cottage was rebuilt in the early 19th century. The cottage became a symbol for the battlefield, and the people who lived there became the site’s first tour guides. The cottage’s last resident, Mrs Annabelle Cameron (née Belle Macdonald) moved out in 1912 and the cottage stood empty. In 1944, Leanach Cottage was given to the National Trust for Scotland by Hector Forbes, the landowner. In the early 1960s, the cottage became the first ‘museum’ at Culloden Battlefield.



 Please click on the photos above to enlarge it.



Thatching on the cottage is made from heather collected from the battlefield and then crafted together by local tradesmen, while the walls are a mixture of stone and turf.



Please click on the photo to enlarge


Today, Leanach Cottage houses temporary exhibitions relating to the battlefield. These exhibitions cover current research including new archaeological discoveries, people’s connection to the battlefield, and the threats to the battlefield in modern times.



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The Culloden Battlefield was once wild fields of heather grazed upon by cattle. Since 1746, people from all around the world have visited the battlefield. The story of the Jacobite Risings has influenced works of art and literature across many generations, from "The Skye Boat Song" to the Outlander series..




In 1881, Duncan Forbes, the landowner of the moor, placed stone markers to show where most of the battlefield soldiers were buried.





As we walked along we saw stones for prominent Jacobite Scottish clans who fought and died on the battlefield.









Some stones were marked "mixed clans"




One of the most recognizable features of the battlefield today is the 20-foot (6 m)-tall memorial cairn erected by Duncan Forbes in 1881.




Inscription plaque on the cairn. 




Another stone of note is for the Frazer clan, due to the popularity of the novels by Diana Gabaldon and the subsequent TV series "Outlander."





The novel features Jamie Fraser, a hero of historical fiction. It looked like a visiting fan left a bouquet of roses in front of the Fraser Clan stone.




Have you read the Outlander books or watched the TV series?



We spent a lot of time on the battlefield so we only had a few moments inside the Culloden Visitor Center. 
A group of volunteers were there, entertaining visitors with music.



We were back on the bus passing beautiful fields full of sheep...





Another sight our tour guide pointed out to us was the Culloden Viaduct.

The Culloden viaduct consists of 29 arches and was designed by Chief Engineer Murdoch Paterson and constructed by the Highland Railway. It spans over the valley and River Nairn and is the longest masonry viaduct in Scotland, measuring 1800ft (549m) in length. The viaduct was opened in 1889 and remains in use today as the primary rail link into the Highlands.



We were on our way towards the Victorian town of Pitlochry in the heart of Scotland-- more about that pretty town in my next blog post.

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